You can spot Ostuni from miles away, standing proud on its hilltop across the Itria Valley, a cluster of white buildings catching the light. It is known as the White City for its whitewashed walls, and it glows in the sun by day and looks magical lit up at night. We first saw it from the car on the drive to our villa, and it drew us back for an evening visit and a passeggiata, the pre and post-dinner stroll the locals do so well.
This guide covers everything you need to plan a visit: how to get there and park, what to see in the old town, the best viewpoint, where to eat, and whether to come by day or after dark. From our experience, Ostuni is one of the loveliest stops on any Puglia trip.
Ostuni sits about 8km inland from the coast, in the province of Brindisi. If you are based in the Itria Valley, as we were near San Michele Salentino, it is a short hop of around 20 minutes. That makes it an easy addition to a day out or, as we did, an evening trip.
The name comes from the old town’s whitewashed buildings. For centuries the walls were painted with white lime, partly to reflect the fierce summer sun and keep the houses cool, and partly, historically, as a way to help guard against disease. The result today is a dazzling maze of bright white lanes that glow gold at sunset and shine under the lights at night. It is one of the prettiest towns in Puglia and endlessly photogenic.
The old town is up the hill and mostly closed to cars, so you park below and walk up. We used Parcheggio al Giardino, an open-air paid car park down the hill from the old town, and walked up past the medieval city walls.
There are steep fines for driving into the restricted zones, so play it safe and use one of the official car parks. If you are coming for sunset, as most people do, arrive well before you think you need to. The car parks turn to chaos near sundown with everyone chasing the last spaces.
Ostuni is a treat at any time of day, but the two experiences are quite different. Evenings give you the sunset, the lights and the passeggiata. Daytime gives you the valley views that open up between the white buildings, plus quieter lanes for photos before the evening crowds.
We visited in the evening and loved it, but if we went again we would come earlier in the day too, to see the town in full sun. For the weather, late spring and early autumn are ideal, warm but not fiercely hot, and calmer than peak August.
The old town was built for getting lost in, a tangle of narrow alleyways, arches and staircases winding up and down the hill. The buildings sit close together, and in the evenings there are strings of lightbulbs and pretty details like wicker baskets strung across the lanes. Our approach was simply to wander without a plan and go with the flow of people. Here is what to look out for as you do.
The top of the road from the car parks brings you to Piazza della Libertà, Ostuni’s largest square and its lively heart. In the centre stands a tall Baroque obelisk, the spire of Sant’Oronzo, honouring the town’s patron saint. The square is ringed with cafes and restaurants and is a fine place to sit with a drink and watch the world go by.
Wander up through the lanes and you will eventually reach a small square holding the Cathedral, built in the 15th century at the highest point of the town. It has a lovely late Gothic facade with a beautiful rose window and some unusual carved details worth pausing for.
Right in front of the Cathedral is Arco Scoppa, a pretty little pedestrian bridge that arches over the square, connecting two buildings. It was originally made of wood before being rebuilt in stone and ornately decorated. It is one of the most photographed spots in Ostuni.
On one of the roads off the Cathedral square we happened upon the Borgo Antico Bistro, an outdoor bar built in terraces down the hillside. Lit up at night and glowing against the white stone, it looked romantic and was clearly one of the places to eat and drink in town. In daylight the valley views from here must be wonderful.
If you want the classic postcard view of Ostuni, head to the Piazzetta Martiri delle Foibe. It sits on Corso Vittorio Emanuele II, about an eight-minute walk from the Sant’Oronzo obelisk, and gives you a sweeping look at the white town tumbling down its hillside.
There are other good vantage points too, including along the top of the old city walls, but this piazzetta is the one to aim for if you only have time for one. It is a lovely spot to catch the light on the white buildings in the late afternoon or at sunset.
If the hills are not for you, or you just want a fun overview with a local, this is a really good option to see the town:
Ostuni comes alive after dark, and honestly this is our favourite time to visit. We arrived close to sundown and just made it up the hill in time to watch the sun set over the town, turning the white buildings pink against the sky. If you can time it, do not miss that.
Once the light fades, the old town glows. The main event is the passeggiata, the evening stroll, when families, couples, locals and visitors all dress up and promenade through the lit-up lanes, stopping to chat and people-watch. It is a wonderfully sociable, atmospheric tradition, and joining in is one of the nicest things you can do in Puglia. Watch the sunset first, then find dinner, then walk it off through the alleys.
There are plenty of options without needing to book ahead. We had planned to eat at a restaurant with valley views from its terrace but had a booking mix-up, so we picked one of the places with outdoor seating in Via Vito Tamborrino, a small but lively piazza just off Piazza della Libertà. There were tables to spare and the atmosphere was buzzing.
We finished with a gelato from Cremeria La Scala on the same little street, which was delicious. If you do want a terrace with a view, book ahead, as the best spots go early in the evening.
Ostuni works well for families, with a few things worth knowing. The old town is steep and full of steps and cobbles, so a buggy is hard work and you are better with a sling for little ones. The upside is that the evenings are made for children, with the passeggiata buzz, gelato on every corner and squares to run about in.
One thing that caught our eye were the little three-wheeled Piaggio Ape tours pottering around the old town. They looked good fun and are a nice way to see the streets without the climb, which is handy with tired legs of any age. We noted them for next time.
Ostuni itself does not feature in the Bond films, so if that is what brought you here, you are close but not quite in the right town. No Time To Die was filmed a little further inland, in Matera and Gravina in Puglia. If you fancy tracking down 007, see our full guide to the James Bond filming locations in Matera and Gravina.
In closing
It was wonderful to see the White City lit up at night, and equally lovely to watch the passeggiata unfold, everyone out and enjoying the warm evening. Ostuni is atmospheric, beautiful and easy to fit into a wider Puglia trip.
Next time, we would visit during the day as well, to enjoy the valley views from between the old town buildings and perhaps take one of those little Ape tours. Either way, day or night, Ostuni deserves a place on your Puglia itinerary.
If you are planning the wider trip, see our full one-week Puglia itinerary, which links to all our guides for the region, including the nearby trulli town of Alberobello and lunch in pretty Locorotondo.
Til next time Ostuni!
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