Lecce is often called the Florence of the South, which is quite a billing to live up to. On our week in Puglia we set aside a day to visit and see whether the nickname holds true. The short answer is that it does, and this guide explains why, along with what to see in a day, where to park, and the local food worth trying.
We found a lot of variety on our Puglia trip. Alberobello was trulli town, Matera had its caves, Locorotondo gave us lunch with a view, and Ostuni was a beacon of white on its hill. Lecce, a smart university city, offered something different again.
Yes, Lecce earns its Florence of the South nickname, thanks to its ornate golden Baroque architecture and a pair of Roman ruins hiding among the streets. It makes a lovely, walkable day trip from anywhere in central Puglia, and if you only see two things, make them the Basilica di Santa Croce and Piazza del Duomo. Give it a night or two if you can.
It comes down to the architecture. Many of Lecce’s buildings have facades ornately carved from a soft golden sandstone, known locally as Lecce stone, in the elaborate Baroque style, echoing the artistry you find in Florence. The stone is easy to work when freshly quarried, which let craftsmen carve it in extraordinary detail, and it glows a warm honey colour in the sunshine to lovely effect.
As if the Baroque were not enough, Lecce also holds Roman treasures from the time of Hadrian in the 2nd century, including an amphitheatre and a theatre. That mix of ornate architecture and ancient history is exactly what earns Lecce its Florentine comparison, and it is why some also call it Italy’s second Tuscany. Whether it truly rivals Florence is for you to judge, but it more than earns a place on any Puglia itinerary.
If you’re interested in getting to know the Baroque architecture of Lecce, you will definitely enjoy this tour:
Lecce is an inland city in the Salento region, in the very heel of Italy’s boot, though only 16km from the coast. It is the capital of the Salento peninsula and a good base for exploring the far south of Puglia, including Otranto and Gallipoli.
From our villa near San Michele Salentino it was only about an hour’s drive south, so we visited for the day. That said, having seen it, we would happily have stayed longer.
We parked at Lecce Railway Station, a 10-minute walk from the southernmost entrance to the old town. This worked well and kept us clear of any traffic in the centre. As with most Puglian old towns, you are better parking on the edge and walking in.
Lecce is the perfect size to explore on foot. Most of the historic centre is pedestrianised, which makes it a relaxed, safe place to wander and soak up the architecture. Here is a Lecce self-guided walk around, including a couple we ran out of time for but would not skip if you can help it:
Our walk from the station brought us first to Porta San Biagio, one of three surviving gates of the once-walled city. The other two are Porta Napoli and Porta Rudiae. Porta Napoli is thought of as the main gate, Baroque in style but modelled on a Roman triumphal arch, while Porta Rudiae is the oldest, decorated with several saints including Sant’Oronzo, the protector of Lecce. We stopped for a coffee and a cannoli at a pasticceria just outside the gate to set us up for the day.
Here is an honest confession: we did not make it inside Santa Croce, and looking back that was a mistake. This ornate Baroque church, with a facade so detailed it looks like embroidery in stone, is the single sight that most earns Lecce its Florence of the South nickname. If you see nothing else, see this. It is top of our list for a return.
Another one we would prioritise next time. Piazza del Duomo is one of the most beautiful squares in Italy, unusual for being enclosed on most sides, and it holds the Cathedral with its double facade and a bell tower you can climb for views over the city. A must if you have the time we did not.
This gem of a museum became one almost by accident. Back in 2001 the owner, Mr Faggiano, broke through his basement floor to fix some troublesome sewer pipes and uncovered layer upon layer of history spanning more than 2,000 years: medieval stones, remnants of a Franciscan chapel, etchings linked to the Knights Templar, a Roman granary and even an emerald-set bishop’s ring. It is a wonderful, unexpected window into the depth of Lecce’s past.
Back on Via dei Perroni, we came upon Chiesa di San Matteo, a beauty of a church with striking stone carvings on its facade. Worth a pause even from the outside.
A short walk on brought us to the Roman Theatre, built in the 2nd century and only unearthed in 1929 after centuries lost among the Baroque alleys. Three original theatre masks were found in the dig and are displayed in a small museum room. It does not take long to visit.
You can get a good view of the Roman Theatre from Via Arte della Cartapesta without paying to go inside, handy if you are short on time.
Lecce’s main square, Piazza Sant’Oronzo, holds the other great Roman site: a 2nd-century amphitheatre, hidden until it was excavated from 1901. It once seated thousands of spectators across two tiers, of which only the lower remains. You can get a very good view of it straight from the square, so there is no need to pay to enter unless you have a particular interest. In summer the amphitheatre sometimes hosts performances, so you might be lucky with the timing.
Also in the square stands the Column of Sant’Oronzo, around 29 metres high and topped with a bronze statue of the city’s patron saint. It originally marked the end of the Via Appia, the ancient Roman road, over in Brindisi, before being brought here.
From Piazza Sant’Oronzo we headed east to the walls of Castello Carlo V, which dates to the Middle Ages and effectively divides the old and new parts of the city. Like many castles it has worn many hats over the centuries: fortress, prison, barracks and museum. It is free to visit, though guided tours are in Italian only. There is a lovely fountain, the Fountain of Armonia, on the south side.
We cannot review a sit-down meal, as we grabbed food on the go, but what we ate was excellent. The street pizza from Mezzo Quinto on Via Degli Ammirati, just along from the Roman Theatre, was fantastic and doing brisk trade as a result. We also loved a gelato from Gelateria La Romana near the castle.
If you want to eat like a local, seek out Lecce’s specialities. The pasticciotto, a small shortcrust pastry filled with warm custard, is the city’s signature treat and worth queuing for. Also try a rustico leccese, a puff pastry parcel of mozzarella, tomato and béchamel, and cool off with a caffè leccese, an iced espresso sweetened with almond milk.
If like us, you or someone in your party has a nut allergy, we have some allergy translation cards in Italian. Also, if you want to eat like a local, then consider booking one of the following activities for your time in Lecce:
So, does Lecce earn its Florence of the South title? We think it comes very close. There is plenty to see, and we thoroughly enjoyed exploring the shady streets despite the 28 to 29 degree heat. Travelling with our older children, we leaned towards the Roman sites over the churches, which is how we came to miss the Cathedral and the Basilica di Santa Croce, the very sights that most define the city’s Baroque reputation.
That, honestly, is our one regret and our reason to return. If we came again, we would stay a couple of nights, see those Baroque churches properly, climb the Cathedral bell tower, and try some of Lecce’s restaurants in the evening. A day is enough for a taste, but Lecce rewards longer. Next time.
In closing
Lecce surprised us. After the trulli and the white hill towns, its honey-coloured Baroque streets and Roman ruins felt like a proper city break dropped into the middle of a relaxed Puglia holiday. It earns its Florence of the South nickname, and it left us wanting more, which is always the mark of a good visit.
If you are planning the wider trip, see our full one-week Puglia itinerary, which links to all our guides for the region, from the trulli of Alberobello to the caves of Matera.
Until next time Lecce!
Join thousands of travelers looking for inspiration from our FREE Planet Travel newsletter!
Your step-by-step framework for stress-free, unforgettable trips — from first idea to final itinerary.
Your step-by-step framework for stress-free, unforgettable trips — from first idea to final itinerary.
Join thousands of travelers looking for inspiration from our FREE Planet Travel newsletter!
