A little country at the crossroads of Europe and Asia, with big mountains, ancient wine and some of the warmest welcomes we have found anywhere. Here is how to plan a trip.
Tucked into the Caucasus between the Black Sea and the mountains, Georgia is one of those places that gets under your skin.
It is the birthplace of wine, the home of a feasting culture like no other, and still refreshingly good value. We booked our flights the evening we watched a Tbilisi episode of Somebody Feed Phil, and it did not disappoint. Expect a characterful capital of old balconies and buzzing wine bars, snow-capped peaks a couple of hours away, and vineyards that have been worked for 8,000 years. It is easy to reach, easy to travel, and just different enough to feel like an adventure.
Everything here comes from our own trips. Pick a thread and pull on it, or see the ready-made plan further down.
Georgia’s warm, ramshackle capital, where sulphur baths, a hilltop fortress and cobbled old streets meet a buzzing scene of wine bars and cafes. The natural place to start.
Cheese-filled khachapuri, soup-filled khinkali and strings of churchkhela hanging in every market. Our food guide covers what to order and where, plus the Tbilisi cookery course we loved.
Georgia is where wine began, and Kakheti is its heartland. Buried qvevri cellars, hilltop Sighnaghi and tastings among the vines, an easy trip east from Tbilisi.
One of the most spectacular drives in the Caucasus, from Tbilisi up over the Jvari Pass to Kazbegi, past a hilltop fortress at Ananuri, a turquoise reservoir and mountain monuments. Chekhov called it poetry. Our guide has every stop.
Where to stay once you have made the drive north: a stylish mountain base at Stepantsminda, with Mount Kazbek and the Gergeti Trinity Church on the doorstep. Our honest review of the hotel and its setting.
Want to know how we managed to fit so much into just a week road trip across Georgia?
Not sure how to string it together? Our seven-day itinerary combines Tbilisi, the Kazbegi mountains and the Kakheti wine country into one easy loop, with where to go, what to do and how to budget it.
A quick orientation to get you started. For a full plan, our week in Georgia itinerary does the heavy lifting.
For us, absolutely. Few places pack in this much: a lively capital, high mountains, ancient wine country and a food scene worth the trip alone, all at prices that still feel kind.
A week is ideal and covers the classic loop of city, mountains and wine. A long weekend is enough for Tbilisi and a taste of Kakheti. Our week in Georgia itinerary maps it out.
Late spring and early autumn are the sweet spots, with warm days and the vineyards at their best. Summers are hot in the lowlands, and winter brings snow to the mountains.
Most people fly into Tbilisi and travel by a mix of day tours, hired drivers and shared minibuses. A driver makes the mountain run up to Kazbegi far more relaxing. Our itinerary sets out the routes.
The currency is the lari, and it is worth carrying cash for markets and rural wineries.
English is widely spoken in Tbilisi, less so in the countryside, but a smile goes a long way.
Many nationalities, including UK passport holders, can currently visit for up to a year visa-free, but always check the latest rules.
Say 'Yes' to a Supra if you are invited - a Georgian feast, with its endless toasts and free-flowing wine, is the fastest way to fall for the place.
A few things we would sort in advance. We book through GetYourGuide where it makes sense.
Geographically, Georgia is transcontinental, sitting at the intersection of Eastern Europe and Western Asia, within the Southern Caucasus region. Today, it is widely considered to be part of Europe – culturally, historically and politically.
Yes. It is one of the safer countries we have travelled in, with low crime and famously hospitable locals. As anywhere, keep an eye on the latest travel advice, particularly near the occupied territories.
Very, by European standards. Food, wine, transport and accommodation all go a long way, which is a big part of the appeal.
A week covers the highlights of city, mountains and wine. You could happily spend two.
No. English is common in Tbilisi and the main tourist spots. Learning a couple of words, and the toast “gaumarjos”, will earn you plenty of smiles.