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Split, Croatia Review: A Five Day Stay We Didn’t Plan

Smyto Creative

11 months ago

We visited Split in late August, following a week in Dubrovnik, travelling as three siblings plus one boyfriend. Originally the plan was two days in Hvar and three in Split, but a thunderstorm changed everything.

On our final day in Dubrovnik, lightning cracked over the Adriatic, and with two of us prone to seasickness we decided to skip the ferry crossing and head straight to Split. What was supposed to be a quick city stopover turned into five full days.

In this review I’ll share what we found to do, what we loved, and what we’d do differently next time.

⚡ How long do you need in Split?

Two to three days is plenty to cover the main sights comfortably. We ended up with five after a storm changed our plans, and while we made the most of it, we’d keep it shorter next time and use the extra days for nearby islands or Krka National Park

Things to do in Split

Despite the unexpected change of plans, Split gave us some memorable free and paid experiences, especially when we focused on activities that made the most of the landscape and history. Below are some of our favourite adventures, with a booking link where we found one worth sharing.

1. Wine tasting and Krka National Park (Skradinski Buk Waterfall)

A classic day trip from Split. The wine was excellent, the scenery beautiful and the waterfalls lived up to the hype, though the crowds were heavy even later in the afternoon. This activity takes a full 8 hours, but the time flies by.

2. White water rafting on the Cetina River

White water rafting down the Cetina River was a personal highlight. It was refreshing, fast paced, and surrounded by stunning mountain views. We did this as part of an 8 hour activity paired with Klis Fortress, but you can book the rafting on its own.

3. A walking tour of the Old Town

A historical or Game of Thrones walking tour is a must for your first day in Split. They usually take about an hour and a half, and they’re full of interesting detail about the city.

4. Klis Fortress

Perched above Split, this is a must-see for Game of Thrones fans, as Klis Fortress stands in as the city of Meereen. It also offers the best views of Split and the Adriatic coastline. You can either visit as part of a wider tour or get an Uber up here, but there is a general admission fee to enter.

5. Marjan Hill at sunset

Our favourite free activity. Most evenings we climbed the 300 stairs to Marjan Hill with a few beers, and one night, takeaway pizza. The view over the Old Town and harbour as the sun set was spectacular, and the stray cats wandering around only added to the feel of the vantage point.

6. Kasjuni Beach

Clear turquoise water, a pebble shore, and a great spot to unwind after sightseeing. It’s walkable, but an Uber is worth it in the summer heat. Bring water shoes or a mat, as the stones aren’t kind on bare feet.

7. A day trip to the Blue Cave and the islands

This is the one thing we’d add if we went back. Because the storm scared us off the Hvar ferry, we never made it out to the islands, and that’s the gap we’d fill. The full-day Blue Cave and five islands speedboat tour reaches the glowing Blue Cave on Biševo, stops at the Mamma Mia filming village of Komiža on Vis, and finishes with free time in Hvar, so you get the island hopping we missed all in one day. Book the early departure to reach the cave before the queues build.

8. A tuk tuk ride around the city

A fun way to explore Split is to book a tuk tuk ride where you can put your feet up and travel in retro style around this beautiful city. As well as the main sights, the marina, Vidilica Terrace and Sustipan Park, your driver will take you to some off the track spots while sharing stories and history about the city and Croatia more widely. A great option when it’s hot and sunny.

9. Split's quirky cat scene

Split has a soft spot for stray cats, which turned out to be one of the most unexpected joys of the trip. You can even track Tom the Cat, a local legend, on Google Maps, along with his furry friends Cat Lady Chonk, Susie and Pedro. Visit the Cat Garden in the Old Town, where the city’s strays gather, then grab a coffee next door at D16 Coffee, one of our favourites.

10. Evenings in the Peristyle

At night the Peristyle courtyard fills with live music, laughter and costumed Roman soldiers posing for photos. It’s kitschy but fun, if you can navigate through the crowds.

Our honest impressions of Split

Five days gave us plenty of time to form a proper opinion of Split, and it’s a mixed one. Here’s the honest version, the parts we loved and the parts that wore a little thin after a while.

Is Split's Old Town too crowded?

Split is undeniably beautiful, but also undeniably busy. During the day the Old Town often felt like an Adriatic Disneyland, a maze of polished stone streets packed with cruise ship passengers and tour groups. It was hard to slow down or take in the details amid the constant motion.

However, once we learned the layout, darting through the narrow alleys of Diocletian’s Palace felt like playing an Assassin’s Creed mission – part of the fun!

What is the best time of day to visit Diocletian's Palace?

The best time to explore is early in the morning, between 6am and 10am, before the cruise ships arrive. The streets are empty except for nuns and locals tidying up from the night before. That’s when you can really appreciate the palace’s details, the Peristyle, the Temple of Jupiter, Diocletian’s Mausoleum, and the four gates (the Golden Gate is the most striking).

Our favourite area was the old wine cellar, once part of the palace’s foundations and later a sewage system. Now a tourist spot, it’s cool in both senses, atmospheric, and a welcome escape from the heat.

What is Split like at night?

At night Split transforms into a ecstatic food and drink hub. We had some excellent meals like black risotto, truffle pasta, gnocchi, pasticada, pizza and plenty of local beer (for reference: Ožujsko, Osječko, Karlovačko and Pan). The food scene is seriously impressive, but nightlife beyond eating and drinking is limited. Bars and live music keep things lively, yet there’s little in the way of alternative entertainment.

Is Split a photogenic city?

Architecturally, Split is stunning too. With a mix of Ancient Roman grandeur and Venetian charm, the city is a dream for photographers. But beyond its history and dining scene, it can feel more like a tourist attraction than a living city.

Reflections and recommendations

As one of my siblings joked, “I have split feelings about Split,” and I couldn’t agree more.

Is five days too long in Split?

Would I recommend it? Absolutely, but for two or three days, not five. Split works better as a transit stop, a few days between Dubrovnik, Zadar or the islands, rather than a long stay destination. For budget conscious travellers in their twenties, it can be hard to fill the time without overspending.

Is it worth staying inside Diocletian's Palace?

As mentioned before, for a week long stay, we would recommend staying outside Diocletian’s Palace. Our Airbnb, set inside Diocletian’s Palace, while fascinating, was also loud and claustrophobic with no private exterior space, and the living room/kitchen right next to the main street. To make things worse, a bar next door played until 1am, and by day the street outside was shoulder to shoulder with visitors.

Unfortunately a lot of the Airbnb’s & hotels are set within small buildings and follow a similar pattern. And, to make things more stressful, the local parks nearby were overcrowded, so we really struggled to just breathe.

Does Split feel like an authentic Croatian city?

My biggest issue with Split was that it felt disconnected from authentic Croatian culture. Because we spent most of our time in the Old Town, it was clear the area was designed almost entirely for tourism. Yes, it was beautiful, but it felt polished to the point where it lost some of the charm found in other Croatian towns. Even in Dubrovnik’s Old Town, you still get a sense of real local life beneath the tourism. In Split, it felt more like a Little Venice or an Adriatic Disneyland, picturesque but curated.

How many people actually live in Split's Old Town?

Split is Croatia’s second largest city, home to more than 160,000 people. Yet within the Old Town, the heart of Diocletian’s Palace, there are reportedly only 1,000 long-term residents, and just 45 stay for the peak tourist season. It’s a striking contrast that explains why the city can sometimes feel more like a stage set than a lived in place.

The moments that made Split for us

There are moments we’ll never forget – playing cards in the bars at dusk, climbing Marjan Hill for sunset beers, and finding the same stray cats waiting for us every evening. Sometimes travel isn’t about the destination itself. It’s about the small rituals that make it yours.

Practical tips for visiting Split

Split is best enjoyed as a two to three day trip, ideally bookended by travel days or used as a base for nearby excursions like Krka National Park or wine tasting.

We were warned by several tour guides not to visit Split during the off-season (November to March), as the Old Town more or less shuts down. Many of the bars, shops and restaurants close their doors until the tourists return, leaving the city feeling quiet and empty.

The best time to visit Split

The best time to visit is during the shoulder seasons, April to May or September to October, when the weather is warm but not scorching and the crowds are far more manageable. Just be aware that towards the end of October, some places may already be winding down for the winter.

Best time to visit by season, with weather, crowds and our verdict
Season	Weather	Crowds	Our verdict
Spring (Apr to May)	Warm, mild	Manageable	Ideal for sightseeing
Summer (Jun to Aug)	Hot	Very busy	Beaches and boats, but crowded
Autumn (Sep to Oct)	Warm, calmer	Manageable	Our pick for the best balance
Winter (Nov to Mar)	Cool, quiet	Very few	Old Town largely shuts down

Where to stay in Split

For short stays, we’d recommend staying inside the Old Town for convenience, as you’ll be within walking distance of everything. However, choose an apartment that’s three stars or higher, and always check reviews for noise complaints, since the nightlife can get loud.

If you’re planning to stay longer than three days, book a hotel or villa outside the Old Town, ideally one with a pool, balcony or garden where you can unwind after the crowds. Having that extra space makes a big difference.

Budgeting for Split

When it comes to budget, Split isn’t the easiest city to do cheaply. £250 per day for four people is tight, especially if you eat out for every meal. To save money, consider self catering for breakfast or lunch and save your splurges for dinners, as there are some really great spots worth spending on.

As a rough guide based on what we spent, here’s what to budget per day once you’re there, not counting flights or the bigger day tours:

Daily budget guide by budget level, per person and for a group of four
Budget level	Per person, per day	Group of four, per day
Shoestring (self catering, few paid activities)	around £55 to £65	around £220 to £260
Comfortable (mix of self catering and dinners out, a couple of activities)	around £90 to £110	around £360 to £440
Relaxed (eating out most meals, plenty of drinks and tours)	£130 and up	£520 and up

The £250 a day we mentioned sits at the shoestring end, which is why it felt tight. If you want to eat out most evenings and fit in a day trip or two, budgeting closer to £100 each per day gives you a lot more breathing room. Big excursions like Krka or the Blue Cave boat trip sit on top of this, so pencil those in separately.

Where to eat in Split

Our favourite food highlights were black risotto, truffle pasta, pasticada and local style pizzas. We especially loved Bajamounti, Mediterraneo, Adriatic Sushi and Basta.

Between the four of us, one was vegetarian, two had no restrictions, and I have a severe nut allergy. All four of us found it easy to eat out, with plenty of options. I took a small card with “I have a deadly allergy to peanuts, tree nuts and sesame” written in Croatian (Imam smrtonosnu alergiju na kikiriki, orašaste plodove i sezam), which proved extremely helpful in local, non-touristy restaurants where English wasn’t widely spoken. In the Old Town, most restaurant staff spoke good English and were reassuringly aware of allergy safety.

If you’d like to download these, we have free downloadable allergy cards in all major European languages.

Suggested 2 day itinerary for Split

If I were to go back to Split and only had two days, here’s what I’d do.

Day 1

History, Old Town and sunset

Morning

Coffee in Narodni trg

(the People's Square) at Morei or Plac.

Morning

Walking tour of Diocletian's Palace

for history lovers, or the Game of Thrones tour for fans of Meereen.

Lunch

Bibis-Riva

for sandwiches and pastries.

Afternoon

Ice cream at Gelateria aMare

then explore the Old Town's narrow streets and Venetian architecture.

Evening

Marjan Hill viewpoint

(300 stairs) for sunset. Bring beers or a bottle of wine.

Dinner

Mediterraneo Restaurant

for seafood or truffle pasta.

Day 2

Adventure, beach and relaxation

Morning

Coffee at D16 Coffee

and see the strays at the Cat Garden.

Morning

Klis Fortress.

Lunch

Adriatic Sushi, Oyster and Seafood

(my favourite meal in Split).

Afternoon

Kasjuni Beach

(Uber recommended).

Dinner

Gourmet Bar Basta

for harbour views.

Night

Final gelato stop at Gelateria aMare.

L Love Travel Planning

If you do find yourself in Split for three or more days, whether by design or circumstance, you’ll still have a great time. Just make sure to choose accommodation that gives you space to decompress, ideally somewhere you can escape the buzz of the Old Town. If you have full days to spare, venture out to Krka National Park, go white water rafting, or take the Blue Cave boat trip out to the islands. Those were among our favourite experiences of the whole trip.

In the end, Split might not have been the trip we planned, but it’s definitely one we’ll remember.

Thank you for reading

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This blog was written by Tom at Smyto Creative.

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