My first visit to the Scottish islands was to the Isle of Islay, Queen of the Hebrides, which instantly cast its spell on me due to the stunning coastlines, whitewashed houses, and rapidly changing skies. Islay really did seem to offer 4 seasons in one day, with rainbows regularly popping out of dramatic horizons across the water – I could have watched the skies all day, but if you visit Islay no doubt you have whisky tasting and sightseeing to do…
This trip was organised in collaboration with Islay Seashore, but sadly their rental property is currently unavailable for rent.
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Getting to the Isle of Islay
For practical details about how to plan your journey to Islay and where to stay, read my blog Go out of your way to visit Islay in the Inner Hebrides, Scotland.
Our first impressions of Islay were that it looked very green and lush, but interestingly with very few trees. The roads were narrow, and we noticed that everyone waved as we passed them in the car or casually lifted two fingers in a forward motion off the steering wheel – the ‘Islay Hello’.
What to do when you visit Islay
Tour the whisky distilleries on Islay
There are 9 active whisky distilleries on the Isle of Islay which produce world-class whiskies, many of which have a peaty signature which is instantly recognisable. This makes Islay a popular place for people to visit and sample these renowned single malt whiskies. If you like whisky, then you need to visit Islay!
As navigating the whisky distilleries deserves its own blog, I will leave the distilleries out of this piece, but cover them in A guide to explore the whisky distilleries on Islay – one of the 7 wonders of the whisky world.
Don't ignore the other distilleries
It’s not all about whisky on the island, there are gin distilleries as well – Bruichladdich make the Botanist Gin and Nerabus Islay Gin is a newcomer. You can also find the Islay Rum distillery in Port Ellen. So, there’e something for everyone!
Visit Bowmore, the capital of Islay
Aside from visiting the Bowmore Distillery, the island’s oldest licensed distillery, then exploring Bowmore won’t take you that long as it is not particularly big. It is however quaint with whitewashed buildings and full of coffee bars and shops. This is the main place on the island to stock up with food and provisions and fill your car with fuel, so parking spaces are like gold dust at busy times. Other fuel stations are available in Port Askraig, Port Ellen and Bridgend.
Walk to the harbour often busy with fishermen landing their catch of the day, and also to Round Church (built in 1767) at the top of the Main Street where ‘the devil has no corners to hide’!
If you fancy a good walk, then drive south from Bowmore to Laggan Bay to walk on Big Strand, a 12 km long beach.
Explore northwest from Bowmore
Port Charlotte
Port Charlotte is a very pretty village, known as Queen of the Rhinns (promontory) overlooking Loch Indaal. It is home to the Museum of Islay Life which is a great place to learn more about the history and culture of the island.
You might be staying at the Port Charlotte Hotel, but if not, maybe pop in for some food or a drink. It’s a lovely walk from Port Charlotte to the Bruichladdich Distillery which takes about 45 minutes.
Portnahaven Village
Portnahaven is a sleepy fishing village at the far western point of the island. It gave me a Cornwall vibe with cute cottages lined up about the small harbour. The cottage owners had decorated their cottages with features to give them character – nautical themed signs, flowers, and even whisky bottles on display. A couple of seals were playing in the harbour which was nice to watch.
If you fancy some food and a pint then pop into An Tigh Seinnse a small and cosy traditional pub alongside the harbour. Alternatively you could pop into Kilchoman Farm Distillery or Bruichladdich Distillery which are located on this peninsula.
Explore south from Bowmore
The Oa RSPB Nature Reserve (Oa Peninsula)
The Oa RSPB Nature Reserve is in a stunning position on the dramatic cliffs overlooking the sea. The cliffs are over 100 meters high and one of the best places in Islay to spot golden eagles particularly from February until early spring. The RSPB manage a two-mile circular path which begins at the Upper Killeyan car park and passes the American Monument. Enjoy the views across to Northern Ireland (40 miles away) but keep your eyes peeled for eagles, peregrine falcons and seals on the rocks below.
The American Monument (Oa Peninsula)
There is an American Monument standing high on the cliffs of the Oa Peninsula. It was built as a monument to two disasters which happened in the bay below. The first one involved the Tuscania, an American troopship which entered the North Channel on its way to Liverpool from New Jersey. It was hit by a torpedo fired from a German submarine and over 230 soldiers lost their lives in February 1918 during World War I.
Then, 8 months later, tragedy happened again when the Otranto, an American troopship on its way from NY to Glasgow, sank during a heavy storm and over 400 British crew and US servicemen lost their lives.
It was incredibly windy on the headland, but it didn’t deter us, or the goats and Highland Cattle who made their way up to the monument. Near the exit road to the monument, look out for the Shop in a Box – a red telephone box selling locally crafted books, postcards, and tea towels, operating on an Honesty Box system.
Port Ellen
Port Ellen is the second largest town on Islay, and one of key entry points for Calmac ferries. It has whitewashed terrace houses and bays of golden sand overlooking Kilnaughton Bay. It’s a great base from which to explore some of the distilleries and sights on the south of the island such as Laphroig, Lagavulin, Ardbeg or Port Ellen distilleries.
Kildalton Old Church and High Cross
About 10 km east from Port Ellen, lies the medieval parish of Kildalton which has a roofless church built in the late 12th or early 13th century.
Outside the church you’ll notice an impressive ringed cross, the Kildalton Cross, which is 2.6 meters tall and was carved over 1,300 years ago. It is one of the finest and most complete early Christian crosses in Scotland.
Apparently, there are carvings and biblical motifs on the cross (such as, David killing Goliath, peacocks feasting on grapes, Cain murdering Abel, the sacrifice of Isaac) although I found it difficult to make these out, still it was very pretty.
Across the road from the church stands a simple late medieval cross standing in non-consecrated ground, hence its nickname of The Thief’s Cross.
Northeast of Bowmore
Discover the history of Finlaggan
Finlaggen was the ancient seat of the Lord of the Isles in medieval times and political centre of the Hebrides. From the Visitor Centre, a path takes you through the reeds and over a wooden bridge to Eileen Mor, a large island and home of the powerful Clan Macdonald in the Middle Ages. There used to be an 80-meter stone causeway to the island.
As you wander around the site, you can see the ruins of the Great Hall – the main public building which was used for feasting by the Lords of the Isles. There are also views over the Council Island – an important meeting place for the Council of the Isles to proclaim new Lords, which was reached in Medieval times by a second stone causeway.
There is evidence of an Iron Age settlement which was covered over with a castle in the 15th century, before being dismantled for the Council of Chambers. It then became a farming township in the 16th century. Elsewhere on Islay, there is evidence of hunter-gatherers on the island after Ice Age tools were found.
It did feel very spiritual walking around the site, even if you need to use your imagination to try and recreate the ruins in your mind. There was a calm feeling across the site.
For a slightly different experience, there are three more distilleries to try in this corner of the island if you are on the whisky trail – Ardnahoe, Bunnahabhain and Caol Ila distilleries
Other ideas for your visit to Islay
Get out on the water
Take one of the boat tours with Islay Sea Adventures, such as their Wildlife tour, Islay Sea Food Tour, or trip to see the exciting Corryvreckan whirlpool.
Alternatively hire a kayak to explore the shoreline and coves, looking out for otters on the rocks and seals in bay.
Play a round of golf
If golfing is your thing then you can play a round of golf on the Machrie Course.
Take a day trip to the Isle of Jura
It is super easy to visit the Isle of Jura, Islay’s sister island lying to the north, as it only takes 10 minutes on the Jura car ferry crossing. Although nearby, Jura feels much wilder than Islay and has more red deer than residents. Find out more in my blog Spot deer and drink whisky on the Isle of Jura in the Inner Hebrides, Scotland.
Shop at the Islay Woollen Mill
Drop into the Islay Woollen Mill and consider investing in some woven goods – scarves, shawls, jackets, hats, bags. Coming from Yorkshire we were interested to find out that the owning family hails from the Yorkshire mill town of Huddersfield. Some of the items might be on the expensive side but they are lovely quality and a wonderful reminder of your visit to Islay.
Invest in spirits at The Islay Whisky Vault
The Islay Whisky Vault is a shop dedicated to first and limited release editions from all 9 distilleries on the island. They also cask and age their own whiskies from the producers. If you haven’t already spent too much in the distilleries themselves, then consider buying some special bottles here (and then trying not to open them when you get home). You can sample a few drams alongside whisky soaked raisin cake.
Try a Haggis topping on your pizza!
Putting haggis on your pizza seems like a novelty for us non-Scots, but if you want to ‘go local’ when you visit Islay, then pick up a:
- Haggis and black pudding topped pizza from Sea Salt in Port Ellen, or a
- Peatzeria pizza with marinated chicken, haggis, black pudding and Italian Calabrian Nduja from Peatzeria in Bowmore. It’s unique selling point it that is has a peat-fired pizza oven, hence its name!
If you visit the beautiful Isle of Islay, I hope the island casts its magic on you too!
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