If you like whisky, then you’ll love the Isle of Islay in the Inner Hebrides, Scotland! There are 9 active whisky distilleries on Islay, plus a high-end returner, contributing to its status as one of the 7 Wonders of the Whisky World. Islay is especially known for its production of peaty single malts with a distinctive aroma. Are you ready to take the Islay Whisky Challenge and visit all 9 distilleries on your visit? Here’s how you might do it…
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Practical details of visiting Islay
For details on how to get to the Isle of Islay, when to travel and where to stay, check out my blogs:
- For how to get to Islay, read –Go out of your way to visit Islay in the Inner Hebrides
- For what to do on Islay, read How best to visit Islay and sample island life in the Inner Hebrides
The Islay Whisky Festival (Fèis Ìle)
As mentioned in a previous blog, there is a world-famous Whisky Festival (Fèis Ìle) held on Islay during May, usually the last 10 days of the month, which celebrates all things whisky. During the festival there is a full programme of events such as whisky tastings, distillery tours and live entertainment, which sounds like a must for whisky fans.
However, as I have not been to the Whisky Festival then this blog will concentrate on visiting the whisky distilleries on Islay outside of festival time.
General Islay distillery information
The first fact about whisky that I learnt from my Scottish host was that there is “no e in Scottish whisky Lucinda” – that was me told!
The Isle of Islay is uniquely placed for whisky distillation – the Gulf Stream comes along the West Coast of Scotland, passing Islay along the way and helping to create a warmer microclimate for growing. The amount of rain that Islay receives, coupled with the warmth of the sun, helps create excellent peat bogs from decomposed vegetation. The peat then fuels the drying of the barley from which the whisky is made and helps give the Islay whiskies their signature peaty flavour.
The whisky distilleries on Islay to the south produce malts with a stronger peaty flavour (Laphroaig, Lagavulin, Ardbeg) than those in the north, which have a lighter taste.
Whisky is produced and distilled on the island but the maltings could be done elsewhere in Scotland before being brought on trucks, peated, activated, and put through the distillery process on Islay. This can be a differentiator for the distilleries as some of them pride themselves on completing the whole process on the island of Islay.
As Islay is such a small island, not all the casks can be stored here, so some are shipped to the mainland for storage.
The whisky distilleries on Islay are painted white with their names in large black letters on the waterside of the buildings. This is to make the distilleries identifiable from far away, and also from the water so that historically deliveries on boats arrived to the right place.
Your strategy for visiting all 9 whisky distilleries on Islay
Depending how much time you have on the Isle of Islay, you will need a good strategy to help you explore all the distilleries on offer. Here are some tips to help you organise yourself:
- Go out of season when it’s quieter – finding accommodation will be easier and the distilleries will be less busy. March is a good month to consider.
- Research what’s on offer at each of the distilleries in terms of tours, talks and tasting sessions.
- Make a plan depending on what you want to see and how long you have on the island. Check the distillery opening times and days to avoid disappointment.
- Schedule a variety of activities for each day – consider booking a range of activities each day, such as a tour, tasting or pairing session, talk from the Head Distiller, or simply sampling in the bar. Then you will have a varied experience whilst you tour and be less likely to get tipsy than if you do 3 or 4 tastings a day!
- Don’t forget to eat – have a hearty breakfast before you head to a distillery and try to book your tastings for after lunch. Sampling 60% proof spirits at 9.30am is only going to end one way…
- Alternate driving duties or book a private driver – if using your own vehicle, take it in turns to drive and be the designated driver. Alternatively, if there are a few of you, it might be cost effective to book a private driver, so no-one needs to worry about driving duties and miss out.
- Group the distilleries by geography – the distilleries nicely group together so that you can easily visit 3 per day over 3 days, or over 4 days if you have longer, as follows:
Central, Western Coast of Islay
The Bowmore Distillery
The Bowmore Distillery in the island’s capital of Bowmore, stands on the banks of Loch Indaal and is the oldest licensed distillery on Islay, founded in 1779. They have their own malt barn which helps them offer a hand-crafted experience recognised around the world, turning the barley by hand over 4 hours.
The Bowmore Distillery offers a range of activities, including a luxury tasting experience followed by a chauffeur driven tour in an Aston Martin – obviously appealing to high earners!
Northwest from Bowmore
Kilchoman Farm Distillery
Kilchoman Farm Distillery claims to be a one-stop shop, producing the only single-farm single malt whiskey from start to finish on the island – from barley to bottle. Previously an established farm, Kilchoman grows 440 tonnes of barley each year and produces 1,400 barrels of Kilchoman 100% Islay whisky. The distillery offers a Classic Tour, a Roving Tour and a Limited Edition Tasting and Tour. Along with Ardbeg, it is one of only two distilleries with a café on-site.
Bruichladdich Distillery
Bruichladdich distillery is independently owned. Having been mothballed for a long time, it was bought by a group of whisky enthusiasts and reopened in noughties, since when it has gone from strength to strength.
The Distillery has the best branding (in my humble opinion), with lovely aquamarine labels inspired by the colour of the sea. It is regarded as progressive marketing for a whisky distillery. Even better are the labels which feature photos of the company’s employees which is a nice touch!
Bruichladdich also produces the highly regarded Botanist Gin.
Northeast of Bowmore
Ardnahoe Distillery
Ardnahoe Distillery is the new kid on the block, having purchased the site in 2015 and produced its first whisky in 2018. As well as the whisky, the site offers panoramic views over the water. You can sample some drams in the bar by choosing one of the ‘self-guided dramming’ experiences or take a formal tour around this state-of-the-art distillery. Discover more about the distilleries worm tubs!
Bunnahabhain Distillery
Bunnahabhain set up in 1881 was only accessible by boat until the 1960s but is now reached by a long single-track road. It is known for its unpeated single malt whisky (very different to the usual Islay peaty whiskies) with the claim to fame for having the tallest pot stills on Islay. You can book a tasting in the Visitor Centre or a ‘being closed doors’ tasting in Warehouse 9. The 21-year-old Pedro Ximenez cask finish was the favourite whisky tasted on our trip!
Caol Ila Distillery
Caol Ila Distillery on the northern shore of Islay overlooks the Isle of Jura and the Paps mountains. It is a modern distillery producing lighter whiskies which, in addition to being served as a single malt, are used in blended whiskies, most notably Johnnie Walker’s Black Label. The bar offers whisky tastings and offers a good range of cocktails.
South from Bowmore
Laphroaig Distillery
Laphroaig produces whisky with an iodine seaweed twang which is apparently very popular with the Scandinavians. During the Prohibition era, you could still buy Laphroaig in America as it was thought to be medicinal due to the unique taste!
There is a lovely story behind this distillery involving Bessie Williamson who visited Islay on holiday in 1934 before taking a job as a shorthand typist at the Distillery. Bessie intended to stay for 3 months but ended up staying for 50 years working for Ian Hunter, the then owner. She managed the distillery when Ian was away on business, eventually becoming manager in 1945 when production restarted after the war. When Ian died in 1954, Bessie inherited the distillery to become the first distillery lady owner.
Lagavulin Distillery
The Lagavulin distillery near Dunyvaig Castle is among Scotland’s oldest, and it feels like you’re stepping back in time when you enter the distillery. They’ve not gone for the high-tec tasting rooms, merchandising or top-quality eateries on site – rather, it’s all about the whisky here, which is a classic Islay peaty malt.
The views from the distillery over the bay are wonderful and they’ve got some great tours mixing whisky and music, or whisky and the waves, but all done in a very classic way.
Ardbeg Distillery
We dropped into the Ardbeg Distillery to have lunch at its café, the Old Kiln, however saldy the restaurant was closed due to staff shortages. However, all was not lost because there was an Airstream in the courtyard serving delicious Cullen Skink (smoked haddock chowder).
The Ardbeg distillery has unusual pagoda style kiln roofs and uses Shorty the Dog in its branding. There is a copper still on display outside. It produces the saltiest, peatiest malt of the Islay whiskies. It is now owned by Glenmorangie.
The Three Distilleries Pathway – there is a pathway running from Port Ellen along the route of the three distilleries, Laphroaig, Lagavulin and Ardbeg, so you can either walk the pathway or hire bikes in Port Ellen and cycle along the pathway which sounds fun. The path starts next to Port Ellen Primary School and runs for 5.5km. There is a bus stop in Ardbeg, so you can catch the bus back if you’ve had enough.
Port Ellen Distillery (not on the official list of 9!)
The Port Ellen Distillery was mothballed for 40 years before reopening in 2024. During the long closure its casks had continued to mature and so, having been bought by drinks giant Diageo, the Port Ellen Distillery started offering exclusive tastings (by appointment only) of its 44-year-old whiskies.
The distillery has not yet started mass production, instead experimenting with spirit styles for the future. It is not included on the list of 9 active whisky distilleries on Islay, but include it as an extra luxury ticket visit if you wish.
How we found our whisky tour...
Visiting the whisky distilleries on Islay in March allowed us to rock up without having booked. That said, I would recommend booking certain activities to avoid any disappointment on the day, particularly if there is a distillery you want to tour or whisky to sample.
We saw the same people going around the different distilleries whilst we were on the island and met lots of Germans, Americans, and visitors from the Nordic countries – many of whom had invested in casks as an investment.
Without naming names, one of the nations kept telling the distilleries that it was their birthday, so that they would get an extra dram, or in some cases having a dram of whisky poured over them!
We tried to use public transport when we first arrived, but it didn’t go well – the bus service was limited and taxis were unreliable, which is why we ended up alternating driving duties.
Expect the heavy sell in some of the distilleries, particularly after sampling session – they are all trying to make money after all. Maybe wait until you’ve visited all the distilleries before making any big purchases, then choose your favourite and treat yourself.
Final thoughts…
Do you need to visit all the whisky distilleries on Islay if you’re a whisky fan? Yes, you probably do, as they are all of interest and each slightly different – from the branding to the distilling processes used (shiny new industrial process versus more old-fashioned techniques), and the final flavours produced.
If you succeed with the challenge to visit all 9 active distilleries on Islay, then you might be happy to hang up your tasting hat at this point. Alternatively, you could take the short 10-minute car ferry crossing to the Isle of Jura and visit the Jura Distillery as well. Jura also offers a Rum distillery and Gin distillery, so the options are endless.
Full disclosure here – I am not a whisky connoisseur but still joined in with the whisky tastings to try and educate myself. However, as a Yorkshire girl at heart, my tipple of choice would always be a good cup of tea!
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