We visited Split in late August, following a week in Dubrovnik, travelling as three siblings plus one boyfriend. Originally, the plan was two days in Hvar and three in Split, but a thunderstorm changed everything.
On our final day in Dubrovnik, lightning cracked over the Adriatic, and with two of us prone to seasickness we decided to skip the ferry crossing and head straight to Split. What was supposed to be a quick city stopover, turned into five full days.
In this article, I’ll share what we found to do, what we loved, and what we’d do differently next time.
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Things to do in Split
Despite the unexpected change of plans, Split gave us some memorable free and paid experiences, especially when we focused on activities that made most of the landscape and history. Below, I’ve listed some of our favourite adventures, and where possible provided a Get Your Guide link so you can book them too!
1. Wine tasting & Krka National Park (Skradinski Buk Waterfall)
A classic day trip from Split. The wine was excellent, the scenery beautiful and the waterfalls lived up to the ‘hype’, though the crowds were heavy even later in the afternoon. This activity takes a full 8 hours, but the time flies fast!
2. White water rafting
White water rafting down the Cetina River was a personal highlight, as it was refreshing, fast paced, and surrounded by stunning mountain views. We did this as part of a 8 hour activity paired with visiting Klis Fortress, but I’ve linked just the White Water Rafting below:
3. Walking Tour
Doing a historical or Game of Thrones walking tour is a must for your first day in Split. They usually only take an hour 30, and are full of interesting knowledge about the city.
4. Klis fortress
Perched above Split, this is a must-see for Game of Thrones fans, as Klis fortress is used as the City of Meereen. It also offers the best views of Split & the Adriatic coastline. You can either visit Klis Fortress as part of a wider tour, or get an Uber here, but there is a general admission to enter.
5. Marjan Hill at sunset
Our favourite “free” activity. Most evenings we climbed the 300 stairs to Marjan Hill with beers and one night, takeaway pizza. The view over the old town and harbour as the sun set was spectacular, and the stray cats wandering around only added to the feel of the vantage point.
6. Kasjuni Beach
Clear turquoise water, pebble shore, and a great spot to unwind after sightseeing. It’s walkable, but an Uber is worth it in the summer heat. Bring water shoes or a mat, the stones aren’t kind on bare feet.
7. Split’s quirky side
Split has a soft spot for stray cats, which is one of the most unexpected joys of the trip. You can even track Tom the Cat, a local legend, on Google Maps, along with his furry friends Cat Lady Chonk, Susie, and Pedro. Visit the Cat Garden in the Old Town, where the city’s strays gather, then grab a coffee next door at D16 Coffee, one of my favourites.
8. Evenings in the Peristyle
At night, the Peristyle courtyard fills with live music, laughter and costumed Roman soldiers posing for photos. It’s kitschy but fun, if you can navigate through the crowds.
Split impressions
Split is undeniably beautiful, but also undeniably busy. During the day, the Old Town often felt like an Adriatic Disneyland, a maze of polished stone streets packed with cruise ship passengers and tour groups. It was hard to slow down or take in the details amid the constant motion.
Once we learned the layout, darting through the narrow alleys of Diocletian’s Palace felt like playing an Assassin’s Creed mission. The best time to explore is early in the morning, between 6am and 10am, before the cruise ships arrive. The streets are empty except for nuns and locals tidying up from the night before. That’s when you can really appreciate the palace’s details – the Peristyle, the Temple of Jupiter, Diocletian’s Mausoleum, and the four gates (the Golden Gate is the most striking).
My favourite area was the old wine cellar, once part of the palace’s foundations and later a sewage system. Now a tourist spot, it’s cool (literally and figuratively), atmospheric, and a welcome escape from the heat.
At night, Split transforms into a food and drink hub. We had some excellent meals like black risotto, truffle pasta, gnocchi, pasticada, pizza and plenty of local beer (for reference: Ožujsko, Osječko, Karlovačko, and Pan). The food scene is genuinely impressive, but nightlife beyond eating and drinking is limited. Bars and live music keep things lively, yet there’s little in the way of alternative entertainment.
Architecturally, Split is also stunning, with a mix of Ancient Roman grandeur and Venetian charm, the city is a dream for photographers. But beyond its history and dining scene, it can feel more like a tourist attraction than a living city.
Reflections & recommendations
As one of my Siblings joked, “I have split feelings about Split,” and I couldn’t agree more.
Would I recommend it? Absolutely – but for two or three days, not five. Split works better as a transit stop, a few days between Dubrovnik, Zadar or the islands, rather than a long stay destination. For budget conscious travellers in their twenties, it can be hard to fill the time without overspending.
We completed most of the major sights within two days. The parks were overcrowded, and our Airbnb, set inside Diocletian’s Palace, while fascinating, was also loud and claustrophobic. A bar next door played until 1am, and by day, the streets outside were shoulder-to-shoulder with visitors.
I think my biggest ‘issue’ with Split was that it felt disconnected from authentic Croatian culture. Because we spent most of our time in the Old Town, it was clear the area was designed almost entirely for tourism. Yes, it was beautiful, but it felt polished to the point where it lost some of the charm found in other Croatian towns. Even in Dubrovnik’s Old Town, you still get a sense of real local life beneath the tourism. In Split, it felt more like a “Little Venice” or an Adriatic Disneyland, picturesque but curated.
To put that into perspective, Split is Croatia’s second largest city, home to more than 160,000 people. Yet, within the Old Town, the heart of Diocletian’s Palace, there are reportedly only 1,000 long-term residents, and just 45 stay for the peak tourist season. It’s a striking contrast that explains why the city can sometimes feel more like a stage set than a lived in place.
Still, there are moments we’ll never forget; playing cards in the bars at dusk, climbing Marjam Hill for sunset beers, and finding the same stray cats waiting for us every evening. Sometimes, travel isn’t about the destination itself – it’s about the small rituals that make it yours.
Practical tips for visiting Split
Split is best enjoyed as a two to three day trip, ideally bookended by travel days or used as a base for nearby excursions like Krka National Park or Wine Tasting.
We were warned by several tour guides not to visit Split during the off-season (November to March), as the Old Town more or less shuts down. Many of the bars, shops, and restaurants close their doors until the tourists return, leaving the city feeling quiet and empty.
The best time to visit is during the shoulder seasons, April to May or September to October, when the weather is warm but not scorching, and the crowds are far more manageable. Just be aware that towards the end of October, some places may already be winding down for the winter.
For short stays, I’d recommend staying inside the Old Town for convenience, you’ll be within walking distance for everything. However, choose an apartment that’s three stars or higher, and always check reviews for noise complaints (the nightlife can get loud).
If you’re planning to stay longer than three days, book a hotel or villa outside the Old Town, ideally one with a pool, balcony, or garden where you can unwind after the crowds. Having that extra space makes a big difference.
When it comes to budget, Split isn’t the easiest city to do cheaply. £250 per day for four people is tight, especially if you eat out for every meal. To save money, consider self catering for breakfast or lunch and save your splurges for dinners, there are some genuinely great spots worth spending on.
Our favourite food highlights were black risotto, truffle pasta, pasticada, and local style pizzas. We especially loved Bajamounti, Mediterraneo, Adriatic Sushi and Basta.
Between the four of us, one was vegetarian, two had no restrictions, and I have a severe nut allergy. All four of us found it easy to eat out, with plenty of options. I took a small card with “I have a deadly allergy to peanuts, tree nuts and sesame” written in Croatian (Imam smrtonosnu alergiju na kikiriki, orašaste plodove i sezam), which proved extremely helpful in local, non-touristy restaurants where English wasn’t widely spoken. In the Old Town, most restaurant staff spoke good English and were reassuringly aware of allergy safety.
Suggested 2 day itinerary for Split
If I were to go back to Split and only had two days, here’s what I’d do:
Day 1: History, Old Town & Sunset
- Coffee in Narodni trg (the People’s Square) at Morei or Plac.
- Walking tour: Diocletian’s Palace (for history lovers) or the Game of Thrones Tour (for fans of Meereen).
- Lunch at Bibis-Riva for sandwiches & pastries.
- Ice cream at Gelateria aMare.
- Explore the Old Town’s narrow streets and Venetian architecture.
- Marjan Hill viewpoint (300 stairs) for sunset, bring beers or a bottle of wine!
- Dinner at Mediterraneo Restaurant for seafood or truffle pasta.
Day 2: Adventure, beach & relaxation
- Coffee at D16 Coffee & see the strays at the Cat Garden.
- Morning adventure to Klis Fortress.
- Lunch at Adriatic Sushi, Oyster & Seafood (my favourite meal in Split).
- Afternoon at Kasjuni Beach (uber recommended).
- Dinner at Gourmet Bar Basta for harbour views.
- Final gelato stop at Gelateria aMare.
If you do find yourself in Split for three or more days, whether by design or circumstance, you’ll still have a great time. Just make sure to choose accommodation that gives you space to decompress, ideally somewhere you can escape the buzz of the Old Town. If you have full days to spare, venture out on an excursion to Krka National Park or go White Water Rafting, both were among my favourite experiences of the trip.
In the end, Split might not have been the trip we planned, but it’s definitely one we’ll remember.
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