Beautiful carving of an elephant looking to the left in white marble. Obelisk behind. Ocre coloured building behind. Features two flags (Italy and Europe) hand outside the building.

Rome Itinerary 4 – Campo de’ Fiori, Largo Argentina, The Pantheon, Piazza Navona and Castel Sant’Angelo

Whilst the total mileage of this Rome itinerary is not very long, the wonders that you will see are great and include a bustling market, ancient ruins with a colony of cats, an elephant, an architectural wonder, lunch in the most beautiful square in Rome, and a multi-functional castle with angels on the bridge.

The route should not be rushed and allows for flexibility should you need to wait for tickets to any of the attractions along the route. Just take your time and soak up the history and atmosphere en route.

Shop in Campo de’ Fiori (9.00-10am)

Start today’s Rome itinerary in Campo de’ Fiori, a rectangular pizza south of Piazza Navona which has played host to a popular market since 1869. The market runs from Monday through to Saturday from 7am until 2.00pm. Aim to arrive around 9.00am when market stalls all out (flowers, fruit, vegetables and other provisions) and in full flow.

Around the edge of the square are some lovely shops and delis to explore, plus plenty of cafes from which to grab coffee and breakfast whilst you watch the action.

Despite how pretty it is now, the square used to have a more sinister purpose as public executions took place in the square and it held a horse market twice a week!

Largo de Torre Argentina

Spot cats in Largo de Torre Argentina (10-10.30am)

A 7-minute walk east will take you towards Largo de Torre Argentina, the sunken remains of 4 Republic era temples built in the 2nd and 4th centuries BC. It is thought to be the location where Julius Caesar was murdered in 44 BC. On the west side of the square is the Teatro Argentina, once Rome’s premier theatre.

The temples were only discovered in 1927 and are now home to a colony of 150 feral cats. The Gattare (cat women) feed and care for the cats on a voluntary basis. If you’re visiting with kids, then they might enjoy counting the cats around the site.

Find the elephant and obelisk at the Grand Minerva Hotel (10.45am)

Walk 4 minutes to Piazza della Minerva where you will find a beautiful obelisk featuring a carved elephant by Bernini. The piazza is flanked on the southern side by Grand Minerva Hotel which has a fantastic rooftop bar terrace overlooking the Pantheon. It has been closed for a while and so double check before you go to see if it is open.

The obelisk and elephant are tucked just to the side of the Pantheon and so you will be able to see your next destination quite easily!

Bernini’s elephant and obelisk tucked behind the Pantheon

Marvel at the Pantheon

Don’t miss the Pantheon when you’re in Rome as it really is an incredible structure. Until recently it was free to enter, but now you must queue up to buy a ticket for a small charge and book a slot to go inside. This means that you will need to be flexible with your Rome itinerary and prepared to come back another time to go inside depending which time slots are available.

The busy area in front of the Pantheon

Alternatively you can book a Skip The Line Ticket To The Pantheon on Get Your Guide which helps you organise your time a bit better.

Once inside however you can admire the only monument and building in Rome completely intact from the Roman Empire. Originally built as a temple to all gods around 126 AD in Emperor Hadrian’s reign. It was repurposed as a Christian church at one point and resting place for Raphael (artist) and several Italian kings.

The dome is incredible and looks like a piece of modern architecture with no visible supports. In fact it is the largest unreinforced concrete dome in the world, which has been intact for nearly 2000 years.

There is hole at the centre of the roof, the Oculus, which is open to the sky, so if it rains in Rome, it rains inside the Pantheon, but without flooding the floor – very clever engineering!

Despite this wonder, you won’t need much time inside as it’s just one open room, so it’s the queuing for tickets that takes the longest time out of your Rome itinerary.

Lunch around Piazza Navona

Once you’ve finished at the Pantheon, or at least have purchased your tickets to visit it later, head to Piazza Navona for lunch. Soak up the atmosphere and admire the 3 wonderful fountains in a row across the square. The area will no doubt be brimming with street performers, musicians and souvenir hawkers as it’s a very busy area.

One of the 3 fountains in the centre of Piazza Navona

NOTE – Whilst admiring the fountains, buildings and people watching, keep your eye out for pickpockets as Piazza Navona is notorious for thieves (FYI – so is the Metro if you use it). Just be more aware than normal of where your valuables are and don’t let women with babies and small kids distract you!

You can decide to eat lunch at a restaurant directly on Piazza Navona, but that will come with high prices for your view and not necessarily have the best food. A better idea is to pick a restaurant on one of the side streets of the square which are better value and feel more authentic. Consider some of the eateries on Via di Santa Maria dell’Anima.

Head towards Ponte Sant’Angelo

After a leisurely lunch, stroll along picturesque Via dei Coronari which is full of antique charm towards Ponte Sant’Angelo (about 18 minutes without stops). If you didn’t have pudding at lunchtime, consider grabbing a gelato from Gelateria del Teatro, known for its creative and high-quality gelato.

Ponte Sant’Angelo, the Bridge of Angels, is filled with beautiful carved angels by Bernini, and leads to the Castel Sant’Angelo.

The Bridge of Angels from the windows of the Castel

Tour the Castel Sant’Angelo

Visiting the castle was a surprise for me on our Rome itinerary – we visited it with our kids, but it turned out to be one of my favourite things to do on our trip to Rome.

Castel Sant’Angelo

Originally built as an impressive mausoleum for Emperor Hadrian in the 2nd century, it evolved to become a defensive fortress on the banks of the River Tiber. The castle is surrounded by circular walls, and you will spot cannons, cannon balls, and catapults as you walk around.

There are intriguing dungeons and a prison at the bottom, plus the Passetto di Borgo, a fortified corridor connecting the castle with the Vatican as an escape route for the Pope in times of danger.

The main castle includes papal apartments with some beautiful rooms, frescoes and other artwork.

From the terrace at the top of the castle, there are panoramic views across to the Vatican and St Peter’s Basilica. You can have a drink in the curved café at the top and admire the views.

View of St Peter’s Basilica from the terrace of Castel Sant’Angelo

If you know what time you want to visit you could book a Skip The Line Ticket To Castel Sant’ Angelo via Get Your Guide which will speed up the entry for you.

Finishing your day

Once you’ve completed your visit to Castel Sant’Angelo, you might want to go for a rest at your hotel before seeking dinner, or alternatively you could retrace your steps back to Piazza Navona for drinks in the rooftop bar of Terrazza Borromini with views across the square. Note – you will need to plan ahead and book a table at Terrazza Borromini by emailing: bookingterrazze@gmail.com

What time you finish your Rome itinerary today will depend on when you managed to access the Pantheon, and how long you spent at Castel Sant’Angelo. The main thing is not to rush anything.  The biggest decision to make is to decide which Rome itinerary to do next!

Thank you so much for reading my blog, I hope you found it useful?

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