The first thing to say is that, in the UK, I don’t usually eat doughnuts (UK spelling) as they tend to be over-sweet and rather sickly. However, on our New England road trip from Boston, we had dropped in to the ‘local’ and ever popular Dunkin’ Donuts, only to be pleasantly surprised by their plain donut stick! When researching things to do in Vermont, the Green Mountain State, Apple Cider Vinegar donuts kept coming up and so I was on a mission….
Where is Vermont?
Vermont is one of the six New England states in the northeastern United States. It is bordered by Massachusetts to the south, New Hampshire to the east, New York state to the west, and the Canadian province of Quebec to the north.
Vermont gets its slogan, the Green Mountain state, from the Green Mountain range and trees which occupy a lot of the space in this relatively small state (the 6th smallest in the USA).
We were travelling to Stowe, Vermont, from Lancaster in New Hampshire which took about 1 hour 40 mins, passing through Montpelier on the way.
What to expect in Vermont
Well, as its nickname the Green Mountain state suggests, you can expect lots of mountains, trees and rolling green farmland. As we rolled into the state, we discovered fields of grazing dairy cows, red wooden barns, and historic villages. The number of farms (many of which are organic) lend themselves to farm to table dining, farmers markets and a foodie heaven.
We didn’t make it to Lake Champlain, to the west of Stowe, however it looks like a fantastic place to get outdoors for hiking, biking, and kayaking. The Lake is 80 square miles and has several islands to explore.
Vermont was first settled by the Abenaki and has since had an interesting history for a small state, becoming an independent republic for 14 years between 1777 and 1791. More recently, as well as farming and agriculture, tourism has become the main industry throughout the year thanks to its ski slopes and fall foliage.
Montpelier
Montpelier is the capital city of Vermont state, and America’s smallest state capital city with only has 8000 residents – the only capital city without a MacDonalds.
As we passed through Montpelier town centre, we spotted the Vermont State House with its golden dome. It was too late for us to take a tour but apparently it has fossils of ancient sea creatures, quarried from the Champlain Islands, embedded in the black floor of the lobby.
Stowe
We drove through rolling pastures with red barns and dairy cows, on our way to the Spruce Peak Hotel, our overnight stay just outside Stowe village.
We passed the Von Trapp Resort, where the famous Von Trapp Family featured in The Sound of Music, fled to from Nazi Germany. Their influence in the region has led to various Austrian eateries and the Von Trapp Bierhall.
Relax at The Lodge at Spruce Peak Hotel (Hyatt)
We had booked this hotel quite late, and it was the most expensive stay on our short road trip outside of Boston, however it was wonderful. It is a large ski hotel with everything that you need to ski in the classy mountain resort – restaurants, bars, spa and pool, ski hire, and even a short pre-gondola to take you directly to the main ski gondola up the mountain. Out of ski season, you can enjoy the surrounds for walking and fall foliage spotting.
Ride the Mansfield Gondola
After a good meal in the Tipsy Trout (Hotel restaurant) and good night’s sleep, we visited the red Mansfield Gondola. At the bottom of the Gondola were some great props for fun photos including a red gondola cabin and pair of red skis!
We then jumped in the continuously moving gondola and headed to the top of the ski slopes on Mansfield Mountain, passing pretty fall foliage on the ascent. Mount Mansfield is the highest peak in the Green Mountain state at 4,393 feet (1,339 m) above sea level.
The views from the top were stunning and there was a row of Adirondack chairs to sit and soak it all in. In terms of facilities at the top, there was a waffle house, souvenir shop and café/restaurant but nothing else, just the ski slopes or walking trails back down the mountain. No apple cider vinegar donuts here, just wonderful views.
Stowe Village
Stowe sits in a broad valley at the foot of Vermont’s highest peak. Stowe Village was settled in 1794 and is quintessential Vermont – historic clapboard buildings, independent shops and pretty window displays. There were a lot of pumpkins decorating the village, and a lot of cars as the High Street is a constant stream of people passing through or ‘chasing the space’ to park.
We picked up Pumpkin Spiced Lattes and croissants from the Black Cap Bakery and sat outside happily watching the world go by. The Bakery is opposite the white church in Stowe Village; however, this is not the iconic view that you will see on social media.
For the key view you need to leave the main street and cross the covered pedestrian bridge to the other side of the river valley. Then, when you look back across the valley, you will see the pencil thin steeple of Stowe Community Church surrounded by fall foliage and all its colours.
Snack time in Waterbury
Apple delights at Cold Hollow Cider Mill
From Stowe Village we drove south for 10 minutes towards Waterbury, stopping at Cold Hollow Cider Mill where we’d heard the best Apple Cider Vinegar Donuts could be found. Judging by the queue of cars to get into the car park the rumours may have been true…
There is a restaurant on site, or alternatively a market style shop with a small museum at the back showing how the apples are pressed to make apple cider vinegar. The smell of donuts being fried filled the market shop (not in a bad way!) and whetted our appetites whilst we looked at the food and merchandise on offer. I loved the hats with ‘Vermont to the core’ logo, highlighting the state’s love of applies!
Finally, we left with Apple Cider Donuts and Cider Slushies in hand. The donuts were perfect as they weren’t too sweet (hurray!) and the Cider Slushies were delicious! I had found exactly what I was looking for – tick.
Tour the Ben & Jerrys Factory
Just over the road in Waterbury is the Ben & Jerry’s Factory which you can choose to tour. The iconic New England ice-cream company was started in 1978 by Ben Cohen and Jerry Greenfield who effectively changed America’s ice-cream culture with their fun flavours and names.
We decided not to tour the factory as it was very busy (and after our donuts, didn’t want burden of having to eat ice-cream as well!). However, we did visit the Flavor Graveyard just behind the factory (free to enter). It is ringed by a neat white picket fence and features the headstones of their now defunct flavours including Sugar Plum which was their least successful flavour ever.
Get off the tourist route in Mad River Valley
From Waterbury we continued south through the Green Mountain state to towards Concord, Massachusetts, and stopped in the Mad River Valley on the way, which was said to have good fall foliage.
Mad River Valley is another ski area with a vintage single chair lift from 1948 – the last of its kind operating in New England. The ski lift offers Fall Foliage rides above the multicolored trees on Green & Gold Weekends in September and October. Unfortunately for us we were passing through on a Friday when it was closed. We could have left disappointed, however the trees surrounding the ski lift area were stunning and the colours some of the best we had seen on the trip.
Retracing our steps from Mad River Valley to pick up the road south, we came upon The Roots Farm Market with an incredible display of gourds – pumpkins of all colours, shapes and sizes. Inside the farm shop were impressive arrays of Heirloom tomatoes, apples of all varieties and other local produce.
Final thoughts
All I can say was that Vermont really delivered in the very short time we were in the Green Mountain state. It did feel like quintessential New England, with local businesses and a lack of chain brands and billboards, proving that small really can be beautiful.
We would have loved longer in Vermont and certainly have it on the list for a revisit at some point, when we have time to visit Lake Champlain as well.
Vermont to the core!
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